A collaborative blog project addressing themes from our Anthropology class: Food, Culture and Politics, by looking at the history of Caribbean food.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Haiti... A Brief Primer



Haiti was first discovered by Christopher Columbus on December 5th, 1492. Spain had successfully colonized the island and devastated the indigenous Taino people. However, Spain's interests were primarily vested in the emerging gold market in the Americas which led the island's economy to grow slowly. French, English and Dutch settlers eventually inhabited the island, forming a pirate colony, Tortuga, that flourished by hunting Spanish ships and making good use of the island's ecological wealth. By 1664, the French West India Company took control over Tortuga, and France formally claimed control of the Western portion of the island "Hispaniola" under the Treaty of Ryswick.

In 1967, Haiti became the French colony of Saint-Dominique. The French imported slaves from Africa and grew cash crops such as indigo, tobacco, cotton and cacao. Its capital, Cap Francais, became known as the "Paris of the New World." Over the next century, the French colonists used whatever means were necessary to quell the burgeoning slave rebellions. The French Revolution played a major part in the colony's independence, as resources were primarily focused within France. By 1804, under the leadership of Jean-Jacques Dessalines, the rebels formally seized control of the island and restored its original name, 'Haiti' or, "Land of Mountains." Haiti successfully became the first free slave colony in the world.

Although the revolution formally ended slavery and the race hierarchy, the social and economic divisions deriving from the colonial regime strongly influenced post-colonial society. Former slaves simply refused to return to the plantations, opting instead for a subsistence based mode of production. As a result, the Haitian economy is sharply divided between peasant farmers concentrated in its interior and a wealthy "mulatto" elite who reside closer to the coast. The subsistence economy has resulted in unprecedented levels of deforestation; it is virtually impossible to find significant amounts of trees outside of two national parks. On Tuesday January 12th, 2010, things got a lot worse for Haitians. The epicenter of a massive 7.0 Mw earthquake struck 16 miles of Port-au-Prince. The Haitian government estimated 316,000 deaths, 300,000 injuries and 1,000,000 made homeless. The recovery effort is ongoing, and I urge anyone interested to donate to UNICEF or the Red Cross. It's a tendency for Westerners to be concerned only with what's on the news, and as Haiti disappeared from headlines so did much of its support. If you've got a few bucks, you might as well contribute. 
Haiti is a nation defined by domestic struggle, and has become the poorest nation in the Western hemisphere. Although Haitians have faced unprecedented strife at the hands of the developed world, the complex interplay of colonization and migration have led it to create incredibly unique culinary traditions. Haitian cuisine has been influenced by Spanish, French, African and even American dishes. Prior to Columbus' arrival, the indigenous Arawak and Taino cultivated fruits and vegetables such as guavas, pineapple, papayas, sweet potatoes and corn. Europeans introduced limes, mangoes, rice and sugarcane among other things. Africans brought okra, pigeon pees, ackee (red/yellow fruit) and a variety of spices. Most importantly, Africans introduced red beans and rice, which eventually became a staple of Louisiana's creole cuisine.

Haitian cuisine combines Creole and French styles of cooking, and the strong presence of pepper sets their flavor apart from other Caribbean cuisines. At this point, it's important to illustrate the dichotomy of Haitian cuisine. An overwhelming majority of Haitians have little to no access to food on a consistent basis; therefore they rely mostly on rice, corn, yams, and beans. Those fortunate enough to have more access to food flavor their dishes with a combination of peppers, garlics and herbs. Typical Haitian foods are characterized by the use of starch stables (i.e. corn, yams, millet, beans) however the more privileged Haitians make good use of lobster, shrimp, duck and French influenced desserts (mousse and pastries). In a nation marred by internal domestic strife and unprecedented levels of poverty, Haitians truly understand the value of quality cuisine.  






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